Photo Credit: Andy Katz.
Geoff Kruth, MS
Master Sommelier
Wine Director
Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant
www.FarmhouseInn.com
Previously Sommelier at Balthazar Restaurant in New York. He helped supervise more than $10 million in yearly wine sales as Assistant Wine Director for Balthazar group.
Has been a frequent guest lecturer at the French Culinary Institute.
In 1969, the first successful Master Sommeliers examination was held in the United Kingdom. The current qualification process requires candidates pass four levels of examination.
For fine wine and beverage service, earning a Master Sommelier diploma is the highest credential.
Elegant Wine Exploration
Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant
January 15, 2009
Today, we hear from Geoff Kruth, one of only 167 Master Sommeliers in the world (yes, world). He is Wine Director at Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant, a Michelin 1-star restaurant in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. When we dined there, he imparted keen insight into local Pinot Noir and also delighted us with a varietal we had not tried. We asked him to do the same here.
Q. One mission of your wine program is to offer "the best of Sonoma County wines." What qualities or characteristics do you look for in Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir producers?
A. I look for wines that typify the style of Sonoma Pinot Noir, while retaining a sense of elegance and an underlying structure that is suitable for our food. California Pinot Noir is fruit-forward by nature, but many wines today are soupy and overwhelmed by oak. The best local wines have a generous fruit profile, but maintain their subtlety.
Q. The Silvaner (Garlider, Eisacktaler, Italy - 2006) choice supports your wine list's encouragement of exploration. Why should our readers try this varietal and what is particularly distinctive about the region you selected?
A. The majority of wine drinkers stick to about 8 major varietals. There are probably over 5,000 varietals in the world, each which have their own unique character. Sticking to the few big name grapes (which can be great) limits your appreciation of wine. In particular, the grape you mentioned, Silvaner, is sometimes bland and uninteresting, but in a few specific places in the world, it can be excellent. The grape most notably excels in the Franken region of Germany, but you can also find very interesting examples such as this in the German speaking part of Northern Italy.
Q. Kindly recommend and pair 3 wines you especially like for drinking right now.
Wine: 1989 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Spätlese, Saar, Germany ($39.99)
Expert's Description: Aromas of apricots, white peach and jasmine, with strong minerality and signature petrol notes from age. The wine is off-dry, but with maturity, seems less sweet on the palate.
Pairing: Local Dungeness crab.
Wine: 2005 Hanzell Chardonnay, Sonoma, California ($65)
Expert's Description: Round, full-bodied wine with flavors of baked apple, meyer lemon and subtle tropical aromas. Hazelnut, brioche and vanilla balanced by crisp acidity on the palate.
Pairing: Sea Scallops.
Wine: 2000 La Torre, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy ($75)
Expert's Description: Medium-Full bodied, dark cherry, dried plum, and black currant. Hints of licorice and dried flowers. Bright acidity and medium-full tannins.
Pairing: Colorado rack of lamb.
Wine mark-ups and prices vary, and, as such, Wine Country Minute 00:60 cannot guarantee the accuracy of the listed prices. Please check around to find the best price and availability.
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