Buttered Popcorn?
California Chardonnay

TASTE - August 20, 2009

The debate over California Chardonnays continues. Critics say good ones are hard to find. Many are seen as dessert in a glass, too buttery, too oaky. We asked Yvonne Cheung, the sommelier at FARM restaurant in the cooler Carneros region of Napa to share her thoughts.

Q. Do California and particularly Napa Valley Chardonnays deserve that criticism?

A. Overgeneralizing a topic and region as broad as California Chardonnay will ultimately prevent people from exploring some of the real gems that are accessible and waiting to be uncorked! Sure, there is mediocre chardonnay made here in Napa, but there are mediocre wines made in all regions, and seeking out ones that speak to us is part of being a wine lover. The overuse of oak and malolactic fermentation was a heavy winemaking trend from the 1990's that percolated down to what is now a region profuse with an array of styles and philosophies. We probably earned the over-buttered popcorn reputation, but winemaking and winegrowing is a fluid process (no pun intended!) that is constantly changing and evolving.

Q. Where can our readers find Napa Chardonnays with a good balance of acidity and fruit?

A. Chardonnay sourced from cool regions is extremely important when looking for balance of acidity and fruit. Carneros is the coolest region in Napa Valley, given its proximity to San Pablo Bay. The movement of the marine layer and fog allow the grapes to ripen properly while maintaining natural acidity.

Q. FARM dedicates a whole page of its wine list to Legendary Vineyards of Carneros. What makes the grapes they produce so special?

A. Both Hudson and Hyde Vineyards are significant to the grape-growing history here, dedicating 30 years to the earth and producing much sought-after fruit. Often described as the "Grand Crus" of California, the vineyards are planted to many different varietals with distinct characteristics due to specific terroirs. The quality of fruit coming from these vineyards is amazing!

Q. Please recommend and pair three Carneros Chardonnays for drinking right now.

2007 Benziger Sangiacomo Vineyard ($29)
Vibrant with Granny apples, ripe summer peaches, and a touch of pineapple. Fun with Dungeness crab cakes and a bib lettuce salad with lemon vinaigrette.

2007 Schug Carneros ($28)
Richer and more pronounced, the baking spices go hand in hand with aromas of baked apple pie, ripe pears and vanilla. This wine's complexities are also due to its aging on lees, giving it a generous mouthfeel and long finish. I would be pretty happy having this with beautiful seared sea scallops dusted with roasted cashews, served with celeriac puree and brown butter sauce.

2006 Saintsbury Brown Ranch Vineyard ($39.95)
Good minerality and fresh citrus qualities in this wine make a great pairing with roasted organic chicken (savor it with the crispy skin!), soft polenta, and dried apricots.

Wine mark-ups and prices vary, and, as such, Wine Country Minute 00:60 cannot guarantee the accuracy of the listed prices. Please check around to find the best price and availability.

Are You a Wine Enjoyer?
Check out the options we have for wine lifestyle and
travel ideas delivered in small bites via email.

[ Read More Taste Minutes ]

Print this page